> t84k: 1984 3. NFLD - Eastern part <))) (select) File:t84k, select pics. Update: 2019-01-15.
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1984 3. NFLD - Eastern part <)))
NFLD - Western part

- Eastern Newfoundland - Twillingate to Argentia The older communities of the east are in sharp contrast to the west coast. Anyone looking for picturesque decrepitude, will find it in some some of the old piers and fishing sheds of Twillingate. But surprisingly, most of the houses are freshly shingled, painted and furnished in Sear's Catalogue style.

84-08-08 - Twillingate. This is more like what we came to see. That hazy green smudge on the pier is made by nets set out to dry.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Picnic spot. Merle sets out picnic things on the rocks.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Old house. This house seems unusually large for Newfoundland.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Cemetery. The town was founded about 1680 by fishermen and Labrador traders. Some of those daring pioneers may lie buried here within sight and sound of the sea. Walking through a forest of headstones, two new generations of Newfoundlanders visit the grave of some family member.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Twillingate Museum. The Twillingate Museum is also a souvenir shop. Merle went inside looking for presents while I climbed that rock in the background to get a better view.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Harbour panorama, 1. Looking out to sea, past the mouth of the harbour, the camera swings from left to right.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Harbour panorama, 2. The essential character of Newfoundland villages is immediately apparent: they're located beside the sea, have very few shade trees, and rocks grow everywhere. Some of these towns claim 300 years of settlement. In Ontario, a mere 200 years takes us to the brink of the Neolithic age.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Harbour panorama, 3. Of course, nothing remains of the original buildings, except perhaps a few archeological remains. The new houses were put up right on top of the ruins of old ones.

84-08-08 - Twillingate - Harbour panorama, 4. The inner tip of the harbour.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Entering town. The road into Trinty. We strolled round the town visiting the larger buildings in the distance.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Anglican Church? The Anglican Church.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Holy Trinity Catholic Church.

84-08-08 - Holy Trinity Catholic Church. And the Catholic Church.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Catholic Church. Its bell is mounted in this tower in the churchyard.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Trinity Museum. The Trinity Museum. Every notable town seems to have one.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Parish hall.

84-08-08 - Trinity - Parish hall. The Parish Hall has a Masonic look about it. Perhaps that triangle helps give that impression.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Harbour panorama, 1. At Bonavista a hill provides an outlook to get a view of the town. Nearby, 300 year old dates had been carved in the rocks by early travellers. The camera swings from left to right.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Harbour panorama, 2. In the upper centre, Bonavista harbour is protected by twin breakwaters extending out from the land.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Harbour panorama, 3. On the far horizon in the centre, is the lighthouse.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Statue of John Cabot.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Statue of John Cabot. In 1497, John Cabot first laid eyes on this continent at Cape Bonavista. The light house is just visible at the bottom right of the statue.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Lighthouse atop the rocks. It perches atop these cliffs. The modern light is that Meccano-set tower on the left.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Rocky indentation. Below the cliffs, secret beaches.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Green sea-pool. With sea-green pools.

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Lighthouse. Visitors can go inside to look at the light. (Picture slightly lightstruck on the left.)

84-08-08 - Bonavista - Lighthouse lamps. Each lamp has its own wick, oil supply and reflector. A clockwork mechanism driven by weights once turned the whole assembly round. A distant ship would see a series of flashes in a pattern of red and white as the beams hit the eye.

84-08-09 - Heart's Content - Merle and sign. Besides Heart's Content, Newfoundland has Heart's Ease, Heart's Delight, and now, Derek's Treasure.

84-08-09 - Heart's Content. A view of the town of Heart's Content from the highway. The transatlantic cables come ashore in the upper of the two coves on the left.

84-08-09 - Heart's Content - Boat in harbour. A fishing boat in harbour.

84-08-09 - Cables leading seaward.

84-08-09 - Cables leading seaward. Old transatlantic cables emerging from the seaweed. Somewhere out there, beyond the bay and across the ocean, they come up again on dry land in Ireland.

84-08-09 - On the Road - Much decorated house. A much decorated house on the road to Carbonear.

84-08-09 - Carbonear - Merle on cannon. At Carbonear we talked to a man who remembered when a bunch of the b'ys fired off these cannons to celebrate the end of the war. When they lit the fuse of the one on the right, the muzzle burst and pieces flew like shrapnel. Luckily, no one was hurt.

84-08-09 - Carbonear - Inner harbour. Looking the opposite direction, toward the centre of town. The same man went on to recount other events in local history as if they'd happened in his own youth. Turned out he was talking about battles with the French in the 18th century.

84-08-09 - Harbour Grace - Court House. The Harbour Grace court house, built in 1830, a respectable age. But it's a pity, in a province whose history goes back 400 years, that the oldest building is only 150 years old.

84-08-09 - On the Road - Ship aground. Near the highway, this ship is docked forever on the rocks. Looks bit like Captain Haddock's vessel, in the Tin-Tin comics series.

websrch:captain haddock's ship

84-08-09 - Brigus - Harbour. At Brigus, the home of Captain Bartlett of Arctic fame, we find our retirement haven. On the opposite side, in a cluster of trees, a cottage overlooks the bay where Captain Bob set out on his voyages of discovery.

84-08-09 - Brigus - Cap'n Bartlett's monument. Captain Bartlett's monument behind our big old station wagon.

84-08-09 - Brigus - Ships tied up. We saw very few pleasure craft in Newfoundland. Here, the sea is a living and a way of life. But at least two persons in Brigus must sail for the fun of it -- unless that's a very unusual two-masted rig down there.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Cabot Tower. At St. John's we go exploring on Signal Hill. Little Red Riding Hood walks up the path on the left.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Old foundations. These ruins of soldiers quarters have been restored by Parks Canada.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Cabot Tower. The Cabot tower on Signal Hill. Inside, an exhibition depicts Marconi's first successful broadcast of a Trans-Atlantic message in 1901. The noon gun sits at the left corner of the building. Fog threatens to close in and obscure the view.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Merle & Derek. Windblown on the rooftop observation platform, overlooking St. John's harbour.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 1. The beginning of a 360-degree panorama, moving from left to right. First, an old gun emplacement looking out on the North Atlantic below Signal Hill.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 2. The mouth of the harbour, looking roughly south toward Cape Spear where a huge cannon protected the city during the last war.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 3. The narrow harbour entrance. On the point opposite, you can see a lighthouse and the remains of World War II gun emplacement.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 4. The heights directly opposite.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 6. The inner harbour. A miraculous haven, made possible only by a chance gap in the line of coastal hills. The main business and shopping streets lie just beyond the large buildings on the right. Along the promenade, ships of all nations tie up for servicing.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 7. Swinging round to the inland side.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 8. Memorial University on the hill to the far right, and our tenting site somewhere to the left of it, in the woods nearby.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 9. The Parks Canada interpretive centre.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 10. A lake on the inland side. (find the name)

84-08-10 - St. John's - Panorama, 11. What? suburban housing developments in Canada's oldest city?

84-08-10 - St. John's - Merle beside noon gun. The signal gun is fired every day at noon. Over in the city, the flash is visible before you hear the report.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Pippy Park campsite. Our tentsite in Pippy Park, near Memorial University. The tower of the Confederation Building is on the left. The Cabot Tower on Signal Hill is faintly visible on the skyline to the right.

- St. John's - Breakfast in bed. Breakfast in bed -- all the conveniences. On a rainy morning, we decide to stay indoors and relax.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Colonial Building. Serenely unconcerned at the passage of time, the old Colonial Building still shows the British Lion and Unicorn above the pillars.

- St. John's. Somebody's official residence. (find name)

- St. John's - Newfoundland Museum. The Newfoundland Museum. Good displays of provincial history and archeology.

- St. John's - The Fishing Admiral. We celebrate our capture of St. John's with dinner in The Fishing Admiral restaurant. In the early days, fishing admirals were senior captains given the job of supervising a harbour. They'd be responsible for mediating quarrels and maintaining order among the rowdy fishermen.

- St. John's - Polar Duke. On the waterfront, the Polar duke. a fog-bank obscures Signal Hill in the background. (underexposed - passable)

84-08-10 - St. John's - Joao Ferreira. The foreign connection has always been significant in St. John's. A Portuguese fishing boat, the Joao Ferreira, has put in for supplies.

84-08-10 - St. John's - Joao Ferreira. This may be the only city in North America with a few bilingual signs in both English and Portuguese.

- St. John's - M.M.C.S Cormorant. A Royal Canadian Navy diving tender, The Cormorant. In the background, mist creeps up over signal hill.

- St. John's - H.M.C.S. Cormorant. Eternally vigilant in the defence of his country, this sailor has spotted something suspicious on the dock. Merle? Merle! come back here.

- St. John's - Neddrill II. A drilling platform unloading damaged equipment. The Neddrill II, a Netherlands ship, is under contract to Petro-Canada. Say, skipper, don't ye think she'd be a mite top-heavy in a storm?

- St. John's - Neddrill II. From the side, this looks more like a floating factory than a ship.

- Crane booms against the sky.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Steep street & Russian ship. Note the hammer and sickle on the smokestack. ... We now turn away from the docks to explore the back streets of St. John's. These roads must be murder in winter.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Steep street & Harbour. A few residential areas are quite close to the harbour. That's Signal hill on the left. (underexposed - acceptable?)

84-08-11 - St. John's - Row houses. Row houses.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Rear of row houses. Down back alleys.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Row houses. St. John's was founded in 1528. Do you realise, that is only 36 years after Columbus? Fires have cleared away the oldest buildings, but plenty of picturesque victorian tenements remain.

84-08-11 - St. John's. Quite handsome, really.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Porch with bicycle. Poking a camera over a high fence gives an insight into how the wealthier classes live.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Doggie. A latchkey child, whimpering on the front step till Mum and Dad come home from work to let him in.

- Note the 10 chimney pots in a row.

- Same building from the corner.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Steep street. We head up the hill.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Basilica.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Basilica. The Basilica has just been made a national monument. St. John's has a numerous Catholic population, descended from Irish immigration long ago. We heard accents that sounded almost like stage Irish, though the possessor might never have been overseas.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Basilica & statue. The front entrance with a statue of the Virgin Mary.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Basilica altar. The high altar.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Basilica windows. Stained-glass windows.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Anglican church.

84-08-11 - St. John's - Anglican church. Severe white trim on this old Anglican Church gives it a colonial air which contrasts with the rich, Mediterranean look of the Basilica.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Merle & sign. Through the mists to Cape Spear -- the most easterly point in North America. They give visitors a special certificate to prove it.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Merle and milepost. 4750 Kilometres to Buckingham Palace but only 11 km back to St. John's. This must be the centre of the world, you can start from here and go anywhere you like.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Buildings in fog. Up the hill to the old lighthouse.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Light House. The original building has been restored to its appearance in 1834. Today, the light is still under the care of a descendant of James Cantwell the first lighthouse keeper.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Tea table in lighthouse. A table is set for tea, with two chairs. Perhaps the Cantwells are expecting us.

84-08-12 - Tackle for hauling supplies. In the hallway, tackle for hauling supplies up to the roof where the lamp is mounted.

94-08-12 - Cape Spear - Dresser and washstand. Upstairs, snug bedrooms for the lighthouse keeper and his family.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Coastal defence gun. Near the tip of the cape, lies a World War II gun emplacement. This cannon was too big to be hauled away for scrap when the war was over and lay abandoned in its bunker. Parks Canada is now restoring the ruins.

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - coastal defence gun. Army officers used to come for miles to see the gun crews practice firing. One blast broke windows in Black Harbour, several miles down the coast. (Check name)

84-08-12 - Cape Spear - Merle in bunker. The bunker behind the gun platform.

- Petty Hbr. - View. A conduit in the background carries water to a small local hydro station. The pipe is made of lumber, hooped together with iron and was spritzing water in a thousand places. (Slight imperfection in the emulsion.)

- Petty Hbr. - Nets drying on roof. Nets drying on the roof.

- Petty Hbr. - Fishing stage. These fishing stages look appropriately weatherbeaten. On the hillside, through the fog, you can dimly see a water tower and pipe.

- Petty Hbr. - Mouth of harbour. Fishing boats pass through the harbour mouth on the way to the open sea. Again, notice the cheerful, freshly scrubbed look of the houses, plunked down on any convenient space between two rocks.

- Ferryland - View of town and Harbour. Further down the coast to Ferryland. (origin of name?)

- To Ferryland - Cemetery and fog. Another scenic Newfoundland cemetery.

- Ferryland - View of harbour. That hill in the background has memories of desperate deeds and lost graves.

- Ferryland - Inner harbour. The inner harbour of Ferryland where we visited a local museum.

- Placentia - View of town from highway. Placentia is the last town on our itinerary. Basque fishermen founded it in the 16th century. The original fortifications were built in the 1690's when it was the old French capital of Newfoundland. In 1713, it was ceded to the British according to the treaty of Utrecht.

- Placentia - Bridge in fog. On our last day in Newfoundland we decide to visit the fort, but the town is hidden in fog.

- Placentia - Map of fort. This site has a long history of French and English occupation.

- Placentia - View of town & cannon in fog. The fog stubbornly hangs on, frustrating photographers.

- Placentia - Tourists on ramparts. Everyone wanders around waiting for it to clear.

- Placentia - Reconstructed battlements. These reconstructed battlements look more like some new form of "organic" architecture than a ruin. Parks Canada seems to be getting some odd ideas on restoration these days.

- Placentia - Bridge & cannon. Ah, the fog is lifting at last.

84-08-14 - Placentia - Merle on ramparts & cannon. No question who's the queen of the castle here.

- Placentia - View of town. A small boat heads for harbour. Before permanent settlement, fisherman came to dry their catch on the smooth stones of that beach.

- Placentia - View of town, right. Turning to the right ...

- Placentia - Mouth of harbour, palisade. You can see the mouth of the harbour from the fort.

- Placentia - Post card view of town. We leave the ruins. Somewhere under the mouth of that cannon, we cook breakfast on the stones of the historic beach. Then hurry off to buy ritually pure Newfie Screech in a liquor store nearby.

- Argentia - On the Ambrose Shea. Heading for the Gulf of St. Lawrence, our ferry, the Ambrose Shea passes these steep islands.

- Argentia - U.S. naval base. The U.S. naval base at Argentia has an abandoned look.

- Argentia - Islands in bay. Our ship heads for open water. We head out into the Gulf of St.Lawrence.

84-08-14 - Argentia - Merle at rail of Ambrose Shea. Farewell to Newfoundland as we steam into the dusk.

End of show.


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