>
Motor Trip to B.C. 1988
*** Merle and Derek with Adam to
Long Beach, Vancouver Island.
* Plus, Mt. St. Helen's, Mt. Rainier,
Yoho, Lake O'Hara, Dinosaur P.Park
0312-01
88-08-03 - Georgian Bay, Chi-chi-maun ferry.
!Looking back toward Tobermory from the deck of the
Chi-chi-maun ferry. !Outward bound to Manitoulin Island.
!Heading into the sunset. The "woman of mystery" stands pointing
her camera at the Canadian flag.
0312-05
88-08-03 - Georgian Bay, Chi-chi-maun ferry.
!Merle in front of the ferry's smokestack. !Derek's own
woman of mystery.
0312-13
88-08-05 - Waterfall near Wawa.
!A waterfall near Wawa in a park set up by a local service
club. Rain and drizzle follow us across northern Ontario. !No
sign yet of the prairie drought this far east.
0313-22
88-08-07or08 - Winnipeg.
!A huge jump out of the Ontario rainforest into the centre
of Winnipeg: the sunny corner of Portage and Main -- the city's
hub.
0313-15
88-08-08 - Winnipeg, Assiniboine Park Zoo.
The Assiniboine Park zoo has a homey feel. !Not so vast as
the Metro Toronto Zoo, but a good collection, and easy to see
in an afternoon.
0313-11
88-08-08 - Winnipeg, zoo, flamingos.
Anxiety attack: did we remember to put away the garden hose
before leaving St. Catharines? Or is it hiding in the grass
somewhere, waiting to trip the postman?
0313-05
88-08-08 - Winnipeg.
These pelicans can't seem to pick up fish in the shallow end
of the pool. They might at least try pushing it into deep water
so they could get their beaks under it. Instead, they thrash
around getting nowhere for half an hour. Inability to solve this
simple problem doesn't say much for the birds' intelligence.
0312-29
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
!York boats on the Red River. From this point, you can
navigate unimpeded up to Lake Winnipeg. This view looks south
toward the city.
0312-28
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
A path leads up from the river bank to the gate of Lower
Fort Garry. A visitor in the old days would have seen the place
from this angle first. Mind you don't leave your luggage behind
in the York boat.
0312-21
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
Parks Canada animators dress up to impersonate typical
citizens of the pioneer period. This could be Governor's lady
leaving her residence for a stroll into the nearby settlement.
The fort was completed in 1837.
0312-20
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
Merle is pulling a Red River cart. It's every bit as rickety
as the descriptions you may have read. No iron is used in the
contruction and no grease on the axles. You could hear them
squeaking and groaning from miles away.
0312-16
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
The Governor's House in the middle of the compound is an
island of refinement. Pleasant lawns and gardens lure the
present-day visitor. Excuse us for suspecting that things
weren't so gracious-looking in the days of the fur trade.
0312-23
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
!Bottlescape in the cellar. Or is this the remains of the
Governor's liquor cabinet?
0312-25
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
This storehouse inside the fort would have held bales of
furs and tradegoods of the period. Parks Canada has supplied
realistic imitations of pioneer tools and implements. The lofts
smell of hemp, tar and grain, the way country hardware stores
used to.
0312-27
88-08-07 - Lower Fort Garry.
Merle peers through the fortifications. Someone commented that
these loopholes in the walls of Lower Fort Garry might be more
dangerous to those inside than to an attacker on the outside.
Because of the taper you'd get better visibility looking in.
0313-25
88-08-09 - Fort La Reine, near Portage La Prairie.
At Fort La Reine, near Portage La Prairie, Merle works a
pump outside a relocated trapper's cabin. This local museum is
well stocked, and right on the highway west from Winnipeg. The
building appears to have a concrete roof.
0313-27
88-08-09 - Fort La Reine.
!The windjammer of the prairies. Looks considerably more
high-tech than the Red River cart we saw at Fort Garry.
0313-30
88-08-10 - Regina.
!Regina, capital of Saskatchewan. Merle sits on a bench
looking out on Lake Wascana with the provincial legislature in
background. Regina is a pleasant low-rise town with lots of
parks and trees.
0314-16
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
!The provincial legislature in Edmonton, Alberta. !Obviously
the capitol of a much richer province than Saskatchewan.
0314-05
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
!Where seldom is heard a discouraging word, and the skies
are not cloudy all day. Except for a few puffy white ones sent
up for the tourists.
0314-11
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
These flower gardens are on the opposite side of the
provincial legislature facing the North Saskatchewan River.
0313-37
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
The Edmonton convention centre and the pink federal building
in the background are also on the bank of the Saskatchewan River.
The Convention Centre entrance is that glass enclosure on the
left flowing down the river bank.
0314-25
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
Glass towers seem to be the new standard in urban chic.
0313-35
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
!The federal building again. My guess is that the Feds
had to put up something costly to impress the oil-patch
millionaires.
0314-24
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
!Cloud reflections in a glass, darkly.
0314-26
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
Blue ice, like the kind you find at the very heart of
a glacier.
0314-27
88-08-11 - Edmonton.
It's not a stairway to paradise. Perhaps a stepping-stone
to success, or a set of rungs on the corporate ladder. Maybe
even a vertical rat-race.
0314-34
88-08-11 - Wabamun Lake Prov. Pk..
After Edmonton we camp at Wabamun Lake, Alberta. !A relief
from the architectural overkill of the province's capital. After
a stroll into the village in the cool of the evening, Derek buys
licorice for Merle at Cohoon's store.
0314-31
88-08-11 - Wabamun Lake Prov. Pk..
!Sunset on the shore of Wabamun Lake. It all seems peaceful
and unspoiled. But in the far distance, trains carry coal to the
local power-generating plant.
0314-29
88-08-11 - Wabamun Lake Prov. Pk..
!The Common Fireweed [Scot/124].
0314-36
88-08-12 - Hinton (?).
!At Hinton, Alberta, this nostalgic tribute to the vanishing
little house on the prairie. The town as named after an early
railway tycoon, not my uncle Ted, who lived out here.
0314-38
88-08-12 - near Jasper.
Mountain sheep on the Trans-Canada Highway make up our
welcoming committee to the Rocky Mountains.
0315-09
88-08-12 - Jasper.
Jasper's peaked roofs match the mountain backdrop. Towns
like this always seem to develop a Swiss or Bavarian flavour.
0315-07
88-08-12 - Jasper.
Parks Canada tries hard to keep tourists interested in our
own national heritage. This animator is dressed in voyageur
costume. She explains that Jasper was once the depot for
all trans-mountain freight. It was brought here in canoes and
flat-bottom boats from the east, or by pack-train from the west.
0315-10
88-08-12 - Robson Meadows campground.
Mt Robson leaps 12,969 feet skyward behind Robson Meadows
campground. Someone told us of a guide who'd journeyed past here
30 times in his career and had only seen the top of the mountain
once. It's the highest point in the Canadian Rockies.
0315-12
88-08-12 - Robson Meadows.
!A view of Mt. Robson up the Robson River, a branch of the
Fraser. We decide to hike to the base of the mountain.
0315-14
88-08-12 - Robson Meadows.
The trail passes through an area of rain-forest growing
thickly with these large, thorny berry plants. They're closest
in appearance to the Thimbleberry. Near here, we're nearly
trampled by a moose. It suddenly breaks out of cover and gallops
across the trail right behind us.
0315-18
88-08-12 - Mt. Robson.
At end of our hike we stand on the shore of Kinney Lake
wishing we'd brought our backpacks. Berg lake is only a few
miles further on. Wilderness camping is permitted. The lake gets
its name from the small ice-bergs that sometimes break off the
snout of a nearby glacier.
0315-19
88-08-12 - Mt. Robson.
!A closer view of Mt. Robson with the clouds gathering. Looks
like we got our pictures just in time.
0315-23
88-08-13 - Mt. Robson.
Merle symbolically rinses her handkerchief in the Fraser
River. Will the salt of a mother's tears reach Adam in Vancouver
before she herself does? For God's sake, Adam, write a little
more often.
0315-36
88-08-14 - Kamloops.
Kamloops lies at the junction of the Thompson and N.
Thompson Rivers. The surrounding hills are covered with dry
grassland and patches of forest. Seems more like the American
west than eastern Canadians usually expect.
0315-24
88-08-13 - Paul Lake Provincial Park near Kamloops.
Paul Lake Provincial Park is a favourite picnic and
swimming area for local residents. Up in the hills, the snow
collects more heavily and lasts longer. The extra moisture
promotes forest growth. You wouldn't know you're in the middle
of a semi-desert area a few miles away.
0315-29
88-08-14 - Kamloops area.
Like this, for instance. The sage-brushy, arid quality of
the countryside is apparent. Despite our committment to
chlorophyll, we have to admit being attracted by the wide-open
spaces. In earlier days, you might have ridden your horse as far
as the eye could see. In northern Ontario, that would be about 30 ft.
0315-30
88-08-14 - Kamloops area.
When the sagebrush reaches this point, the value of the land
for pasture goes way down. Overgrazing encourages sagebrush by
killing off the bunch grass that normally grows here.
0315-38
88-08-14 - en route from Kamloops w. on TCH..
A patch of motor trouble on the route west from Kamloops. The
tow-truck arrives right after this picture is taken. Seems a
couple of ladies moving west had just stepped into the nearby
grocery store when their truck blew up.
0316-02
88-08-14 - en route.
!Kamloops Lake, looking east. !Again the desert-like
landscape with a few patches of irrigated green.
0316-08
88-08-14 - en route.
!Looking west, with the C.P.R. tracks down below. This is just
after the "lock-the-keys-in-the-car" incident. Merle is feeling
a bit dissatisfied with Derek's "boulder-through-the-window"
handling of the affair. A small boat skims up the lake.
0316-12
88-08-14 - Thompson canyon..
!A C.P.R train in the Thompson canyon. You see more of
these hopper cars out west. A lot of the rail cargo in that part
of the country consists of grain and minerals.
0316-15
88-08-14 - Thompson canyon.
On a narrow, winding road we pull over to watch a succession
of inflatable rafts bring thrill-seekers down the river. Each is
powered by large outboard engines. The boats undulate like water
snakes as they navigate the waves and adapt to changing water
conditions.
0316-17
88-08-14 - Fraser canyon.
Merle overlooks the Fraser River near Hell's Gate. The
road itself must be almost as exciting as any raft trip. The
traffic is high-speed and impatient, and at times, that
guard-rail looks none too substantial.
0214-17
83-??-?? - Vancouver.
!Lotus-land at last. !Vancouver's English Bay towers from
a point near the Marine Museum. After a night of camping-out on
the foggy top of Mt. Seymour, we begin scouting out Adam in
Vancouver.
0316-22
88-08-15 - Vancouver, 1855 W. 16th Ave..
The address he'd given us didn't look too promising at first.
Months of junk mail had accumulated, making the building look
disused. Merle does a meditation on the bust of Wandering
Odysseus. Eventually we go round the back to look for another
entrance. There we find Adam in the kitchen cooking porridge.
0316-23
88-08-15 - Vancouver.
He shows us around the old homestead ...
0316-24
88-08-15 - Vancouver.
This is the tent he's sharing with a friend.
0317-22
88-08-15+ - Vancouver.
!Chris Carliss. They both have the unshorn mountain-goat look
of tree planters from the remote interior of B.C. They are now
working for a landscaping contractor and camping in the backyard
to avoid friction with the other inhabitants of the house. We
get permission to use the wash-room and put up our own tent.
tab=anthrop
0317-04
88-08-16 - Vancouver.
Waiting for Adam to sort out his plans, Merle and Derek
visit the U.B.C. Anthropology Museum. This is the back, facing
away from the road. The galleries contain a must-see collection
of Coastal Indian masks and totems.
0316-31
88-08-16 - Vanc. Anth.Mus., totem..
Life is a totem pole.
0316-28
88-08-16 - Vanc. Anth.Mus., totem detail..
!With the lower orders holding up scholars, politicians,
lawyers and huge birds with great bloody claws.
0316-32
88-08-16 - Vanc.Anth.Mus. ceremonial vessel.
This ceremonial vessel may once have been used in the
Potlatch Ceremony.
0316-33
88-08-16 - Vanc. Anth.Mus., totems lined up.
The totems convey Indian myths to those who can read the
carved imges. But they also stand for wood, the forest
primeval in a way that even casual visitors can appreciate.
Strolling beside them is like walking through a grove of giant
trees.
0316-34
88-08-16 - Vanc. Anthrop.Mus, fig. w. box.
Compare these to the smaller, more hand-sized pieces of the
Plains and Woodland Indians, and the Inuit. The monumental
carvings of the west coast are in a special category. They seem
more on a par with the African and Oceanic art that started to
inspire our own artists round the end of the last century.
0317-07
88-08-16 - Vanc.Anth. Mus M. looking in wind..
This picture re-enacts Richard Peters' nudist adventure with
a female health-food freak on Wreck Beach which is right behind
the museum. He'd just returned and was peering in this window
draped in a beach-towel he'd stolen from the lady when he
thought he heard footsteps behind him ...
0317-02
88-08-16 - Vanc. M. w. frog eating out of hand.
We're not quite sure whether Merle's got the frog eating out
of her hand or whether she's cheerfully stuffing the poor
critter down the monster's gullet.
0317-08
88-08-16 - Vanc.No.1 gun escape hatch.
Not many museums have this much parking lot security. No.1
gun is located near the back of the anthropology Museum. During
World War II, the bluffs overlooking Wreck Beach were fortified
against invasion. Tunnels and concrete bunkers still remain.
0317-09
88-08-16 - Vanc. U.B.C. bot. gdn..
We visited the U.B.C. Botanical Garden on a cloudy day in
August. Late summer flowers are at their peak. We begin to make
plans to move out west.
0317-10
88-08-16 - Vanc. U.B.C. Bot.Gdn..
The Coneflowers are good, but ...
0317-12
88-08-16 - Vanc..
The Hydrangeas are excellent. A wall of purple, 8 ft. high
and about 30 ft. long.
0317-14
88-08-16 - Vanc..
!Clematis.
0317-15
88-08-16 - Vanc..
The Physick Garden contains edible and medicinal herbs.
0317-16
88-08-16 - Vanc..
Would someone please tell us what this is? Mid August is
apparently quite late in the plant's season because everything
has dried to a husk. !An example of Nature imitating abstract
art. (sea holly?)
0317-18
88-08-16 - Vanc..
!A small, red lily alongside the path.
0317-20
88-08-15 - Vanc..
This weeping juniper, larch or whatever, at the entrance has
at least doubled in size since we first saw it in 1983. On that
occasion we were staying on the U.B.C. campus for a Learned
Societies Conference.
0316-26
88-08-15 - Horseshoe Bay.
Adam finally makes up his mind to come with us for a
holiday. We visit the ferry dock at Horseshoe Bay to check out
schedules to Vancouver Island.
0317-30
88-08-17 - Vanc. Is. ferry.
On board the ferry, the camera-club photographer has plenty
of compositions to choose from.
0317-27
88-08-17 - Vanc. Is. ferry.
We pass these cloud-hung peaks as we leave the mainland and
sail through the Gulf Islands.
0317-32
- Vanc. Island, route N. driftwood, clouds.
On the way north, up the east coast of Vancouver Island, the
weather turns sunny. Back over on the mainland, cloud formations
pile up against the hills.
0317-36
88-08-17 - Campbell River, fish. boats and cloud.
At Campbell River we turn inland.
0318-03
88-08-17 - Strathcona Prov. Pk. campsite.
!Back again under the clouds at Strathcona Provincial Park
in the interior of the island. We make camp late in the day in a
grove of huge cedar and douglas fir trees.
0318-02
88-08-17 - Strathcona Pk first view of lake.
Immediately behind the campsite, rain showers play up and
down Buttle Lake.
0318-12
88-08-18+ - Strat. Pk lake at dawn.
By dawn the situation has completely changed.
0318-13
88-08-18+ - Strath. Pk. clouds on mountain.
We flat-landers are forever seeing clouds as something "way
up there", beyond our own territory. You have to be a mountain
dweller to really see how clouds interact with the terrain. These
come rolling down the mountain side toward us, then evaporate.
0318-25
88-08-19+ - Strathcona Pk. M. inside hollow tree.
You hardly need a tent at a campsite like this. Only, who
wants to sleep standing up.
0318-18
88-08-19 - Strat. Pk., Myra Falls.
At Myra Falls, the little mermaid from St. Catharines waits
for her kayaker to come over the brink.
0318-19
88-08-19 - Myra Falls Falls with rainbow..
0318-05
88-08-18 - Strath. Pk..
Our one serious attempt to get above the treeline takes us
up the Flower Ridge trail. Adam develops foot problems with his
bargain-basement workboots and we have to settle for this view
of a mining operation up the valley.
0318-20
88-08-19 - Gold River.
!The Satanic mills of Gold River. The workers live in a
company town well back of and above the fumes. The smoke plume
travels down the local bays and inlets and fumigates trees and
wildlife several hundred meters up the mountainsides.
tab=cathedral
0318-35
88-08-20 - Cathedral Grove.
Cathedral Grove in MacMillan Prov. Park is the only know
antidote to Gold River. Hordes of tourists visit this small park,
but when they get beneath the shelter of these enormous trees,
their voices hush like people in church.
0319-04
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. MandA spanning trunk.
Actually we cheated a bit on this one. It's really a double
tree. The trunk splits into two crowns a few feet above the top
of the picture. Some of the trees here are nearly 800 years old.
0319-03
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. Backlit trees and plants..
No stained glass window, no altar cloth could improve on the
furnishings of this cathedral.
0319-09
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. Giant Douglas fir..
A few Douglas Firs look big enough for mountain climbing.
This one is right beside the parking lot, murmuring in a low
voice: "No littering, no ghetto-blasters, and no smoking."
0318-31
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. Decaying wood and ferns..
Colours you might never blend together artificially, seem
rich and exciting in a natural context.
0319-08
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. M. between two trees..
The bulk of these trees takes them out of the category of
mere vegetables. They become monuments to be put alongside
tall buildings, rocky cliffs, hills and mountains.
0319-07
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. M. & D. in hollow tree..
This one is actually big enough to make camp in.
0318-34
88-08-20 - Cath. Gr. Backlit tree-trunks.
Leaning against a huge trunk, Merle is overcome with awe and
wonder. Or perhaps, just resting her neck from all the goggling
upward.
0319-12
88-08-21 - Long Beach, Schooner C.G..
We reach our goal on Vancouver Island -- the fabled Long
Beach near Tofino. The sign says "Campground Full" but we park
and head down to the shore anyway. Turns out the sign always
says "Campground Full". Its just a Parks Canada trick to keep
the place from getting too crowded.
0319-13
88-08-21 - Long Beach M. with backpack..
Using backpacks we carry tents, stove, sleeping bags, food
and clothing down a trail to the beach.
0319-14
88-08-21 - Long Beach campsite.
Eventually, we locate a campsite with good landscaping and
not too many ghetto-blasters. The protruding horse's head serves
as a landmark to guide us homeward following our excursions on
the sand.
0319-16
88-08-21 - Long Beach.
Adam finds some driftwood and we settle down beside the
campfire.
0319-21
88-08-21 - Long Beach M. on beach at sunset..
Everything is photogenic here, even dead seaweed.
0319-17
88-08-21 - Long Beach M, beach, moon.
A Haida moon looks down.
0319-34
88-08-22 - Long Beach d. w. sea-onion.
Next morning, Derek is up early practicing his comedy
routines. This is his impersonation of a sea-elephant with a
sea-onion for a proboscis. The sea-onion is the root end of a
tough whip-like sea plant.
0320-25
88-08-22 - Long Beach Adam sunning.
The audience seems more interested in their own beachcomber
chores. Adam is in intensive training for the Tanning Olympics.
0319-33
88-08-22 - Long Beach M in tent.
Merle is working out for the Romance Novel Marathon event.
0319-25
88-08-22 - Long Beach.
Derek sets off down the beach to get a view from the water.
That's our vacation village at the edge of the trees. More
tents lie beyond the point on the right.
0319-28
88-08-22 - Long Beach sea anenomes.
The sea anenomes seem to be filling up with sand. Should the
conscientious nature lover find a toothpick to help them clean out
their teeth? Or don't they care?
0320-03
88-08-22 - Long Beach starfish.
Derek wonders if the colour of starfish has something to do
with sex./Dear/boy, answers a heavenly voice, everything at
Long Beach has something to do with sex. Perhaps that's why
these two are oblivious to the fact that the tide's gone out.
How time flies while you're having fun.
0320-05
88-08-22 - Long Beach.
These pools in the igneous rock along the beach have the
look of a miniature landscape.
0320-09
88-08-22 - Long Beach waves coming in.
The waves roll in like thunder out of China cross the bay.
!Far across the bay. But this is the Pacific, remember.
So China must be out there somewhere.
0320-26
88-08-22 - Long Beach Adam.
!Adam, sunning, side view. Well, not much seems to have
changed while Derek's been away. Must say, the lad is looking
healthier than we've ever seen him.
0320-13
88-08-22 - Long Beach M cracks the whip.
Derek finally convinces Merle to abandon her reading and go
on a walk. Here she demonstates a neat trick. Can you crack
the whip alphabetically?
0320-12
88-08-22 - Long Beach.
This is why Long Beach is called long.
0320-18
88-08-22 - Long Beach sandcastle.
Further along the sand, day trippers and car campers have a
section of their own.
0320-20
88-08-22 - Long Beach M. and swooping kite..
A boy with a kite demonstrates his skill so Derek can take
pictures. Careful, Merle, don't want to get pollenated by
mistake.
0320-21
88-08-22 - Long Beach M and sand turtle.
The builder of this sand-sculture has captured one of the
great Indian myths. The Mandans, who lived in dome-shaped earth
lodges on the banks of the Missouri, believed the earth was
really the back of a giant turtle swimming in the cosmic sea.
Actually, we believe it too, at least while living on Long Beach.
0320-22
88-08-22 - Long Beach view from tent door.
Back at camp, we assume weird poses to re-affirm our love
affair with the 1960s. Back then, this place was an unorganized
colony of hippies, druggies and naked sun worshippers.
0320-24
88-08-22 - Long Beach A. behind log.
Guess what colour swimsuit the lad is or is not wearing.
0320-33
88-08-22 - Long Beach.
At dusk Adam composes a picture of the alpenglow. The peaks
near Ucluelet have been pretty heavily logged, so don't look too
closely. Might spoil the idyllic image.
0320-35
88-08-22 - Long Beach A on tree root.
Adam the Red contemplates a voyage of discovery to the
Orient. Remember the code of the Vikings, son, first loot,
then burn. Avoid doing it the other eay round. That would be
the road to poverty.
0320-36
88-08-22or23 - Long Beach M. reading on beach.
Sunrise, sunset, swiftly flows ... the plot.
0320-38
88-08-22or23 - Long Beach alpenglow.
The alpenglow finally tip-toes to bed in the west, and so do
we.
0321-01
88-08-24 - Long Beach blustery departure.
Our departure is cold and windy. The air is filled with
flying sand. We keep our cameras well covered and eat gritty
porridge. Time's up anyway. We head south to Gold Stream Park
near Victoria.
0321-02
88-08-24 - Goldstream Prov. Pk. Niagara Falls.
This trickle on Niagara Creek is called -- you guessed it,
Niagara Falls.
0321-04
88-08-25 - Victoria, Empress H. & waterfront.
Next day we head into Victoria.
0321-07
88-08-25 - Victoria.
On the steps of the Empress Hotel, Adam invites us in for
drinks. The bus-boys in the lounge wear safari jackets and do
their best to look like holdovers from the British Empire. Gin
and tonic? Thanks, several. Cheerful? Very.
0321-05
88-08-25 - Victoria, Leg build. yacht basin.
The Provincial Legislature building is still located
opposite the yacht mooring basin.
0321-13
88-08-26 - Fort Rodd Hill, c.d. gun.
!A coastal defense gun at Fort Rodd Hill opposite Esquimalt
Naval Base.
0321-20
88-08-26 - Fort Rodd Hill old cannons.
The fort was in use from the 1890s to the end of World War
II. It's one of the few examples remaining in Canada from this
late period. A coastal defense fort primarily, but it has
landward defences as well. An early analogue computer was used
for tracking enemy ships. Fortunately, none appeared.
0321-16
88-08-26 - Fort Rodd Hill, lighthouse, Esquimalt.
Fisgard Lighthouse has a view of Esquimalt Naval Base. The 3
ships on the horizon probably represent about 75 percent of
Canada's naval effectiveness on the we't coast.
0321-18
88-08-26 - Fort Rodd Hill light house w. balcony.
Inside the lighthouse is a museum of nautical history. The
object in the window is an essential piece of navigation, and
emergency equipment for the lonely mariner on the seas of life.
0321-27
88-08-26 - Butchart Gardens v. from elev walk.
We visit Butchart Gardens with Adam. Looks like a helluva
lot more annuals than we remember from 1983. Hope they're not
going for cheap thrills at the expense of long-lasting perennials.
0321-26
88-08-26 - Butchart Gardens fountain.
The gardens were created out of an old quarry. The fountain
varies its pattern every few minutes.
0321-28
88-08-26 - Butchart Gardens.
!A Monkey-puzzle tree. It's a puzzle how the monkey can get
up it, since each branch is covered with sharp scales pointing
outward.
0321-34
88-08-26 - Butchart Gardens Adam and fushias.
Our west coast philosopher smiles inscrutably. !In harmony
with nature at last. The wisps of his beard seem to match the
stamens of the hanging flowers.
0321-29
88-08-26 - Butchart Gardens reflecting sphere.
!A neat way to get a family portrait without a tripod. But, oh, if it
were solid glass, the weight of that reflecting ball in the camera bag.
0321-36
88-08-28 - Fort Canby, Washington.
We say goodbye to Adam and head south to the mouth of the
Columbia at Fort Canby, Washington. This was the last stop in
James Fielding's historic journey across North america.
Masquerading as an American, he took ship here for the South
Pacific, accompanied by his paramour, Catherine Montague.
0322-01
88-08-28 - Fort Clatsop, Oregon.
!Fort Clatsop, Oregon. The Department of the Interior
recreation of Lewis and Clark's wintering place in 1805-6.
0322-02
88-08-28 - Fort Clatsop, park animator on bench.
Park animators play the roles of Lewis and Clark's
hardy frontiersmen.
0322-03
88-08-28 - Fort Clatsop.
And women. This would probably be Sacajawea, the heroic
Indian woman who accompanied them as guide. Inside, the rooms
seem dark and smokey, but a fort like this kept everyone alive
till spring.
Sacajawea had a baby on the trip, as well as a husband,
Charbonneau, who is remembered chiefly for being a bit of a
ninny.
0322-11
-
On our way to see Mt. Rainier we pass Mt. St. Helens. The
map shows an access road, so we detour for a look. The blown-out
side of crater is just visible on the upper horizon when we
arrive. Morning mists still swirl over the high ridges near
Spirit Lake.
0322-30
88-08-29 -
Later in the day, the clouds part and we get this view
from a rest stop on the motor road. This gives a clearer view of
the blown-out side of the crater over a devastated ridge in the
foreground. !Looking roughly S.W.
0322-33
88-08-29 -
Even nearby ridges and valleys not in a direct line of sight
were totally devastated. In places, the path of the fire-storm
can be traced by noting the direction that the fallen trunks are
pointing. Blown down logs cover the entire area as far as the
eye can see.
0322-26
88-08-29 - Mt.St. H. - M. holding giant toothpick
The whole district was swept clear, leaving only upended logs
like this Paul Bunyan toothpick.
0322-20
88-08-29 - Mt.S.H. - cleanup and reforestation
In the central area, cleanup and reforestation are slowly
proceeding. Fireweed has spread. Fallen timber has been removed
and replanted trees have already taken hold. In another decade,
these slopes will be patchy with shoulder-high trees. In two
decades, large areas should be completely swathed in green.
0322-29
88-08-29 -
This winding mountain road leads to a viewing area over the
ridge. This devastated terrain has a fascination, perhaps even a
beauty. The cause was "natural", though the result is like a
clear-cut or a forest fire which I find truly ugly. Part of the
beauty is in the long vistas, now unhampered by trees.
0322-21
88-08-29 -
Pink fireweed seems to thrive in the volcanic ash. Pebbles
of pumice lie everywhere, inches or even yards deep. Megatons of
it. A sign tells you not to remove any of it for souvenirs.
0322-34
88-08-29 -
Silhouettes of burnt trees mark the boundary of the
devastation zone. A few hundred yards beyond this point, the
forest looks untouched.
0322-36
88-08-29 - Packwood, Wash. backlit tent
We camp for the night among old-growth trees. Our tent is
lit by one stray sunbeam getting through the branches.
0322-38
88-08-30 -
!Mt. Rainier, a first view from the highway.
0324-27
88-08-30 -
!Sunrise national park service centre, located on the N.E.
side of the mountain at 6400' altitude. !Parking lot amid alpine
meadows and late-blooming wildflowers. It's about mid-morning.
The weather is perfect, the sun warm. We know we have a
memorable day ahead of us and it's hardly even begun.
0323-02
88-08-30 -
Merle sizes up the climbing opportunities from near the
trailhead at Sunshine. Here we have the same far-flung vistas as
Mt. St. Helen's, plus the natural desolation of high altitude.
But here the plant communities of forest and grassland are in
natural balance, creating a sense of harmony and eternal peace.
0324-25
88-08-30 -
!Indian paintbrush. {Scot/48}
0323-04
88-08-30 -
!Higher up the trail now, above the last alpine pastures.
!Still lots of flowers. !Clear differences between devastation
and desolation. This landscape hasn't been denuded by man or by
nature. Contrast this to Mt. St. Helen's, where the young trees
were planted in rows. Here, each plant grows where it likes.
0323-05
88-08-30 -
The trail crosses a scree slope, rising steadily. It's one
of those situations where the journey is as interesting as the
destination. Come to think of it, what do we know about our
destination? It's only shown as a series of concentric contour
lines on the map.
0323-06
88-08-30 -
Frozen Lake is the water supply for the service area below.
0323-07
88-08-30 -
The snowbank is laced with red "watermelon" algae. It tastes
somewhat fruity. However, I'm sceptical of my own taste buds in
these situations. Water, and probably ice as well, taste sweet
to my tongue whenever enjoyable outdoor exertion makes me
thirsty.
0323-11
88-08-30 -
The trail gets more rugged. !Nothing but glacial debris now.
The few plants pick their locations carefully for optimum
sunshine, moisture and shelter.
0323-15
88-08-30 -
!Views N. and N.E. over alpine meadows and trails. A network
of trails encircles Mt. Rainier. We meet a man and woman who
have walked halfway round the peak. The entire circle can be
done in about 10 days, so we're told.
0323-17
88-08-30 -
!The final leg of our chosen route, looking up Burroughs
Mountain, a foothill of Mt. Rainier.
0323-23
88-08-30 -
View back along the trail toward Frozen Lake and the red
snowbank.
0324-09
88-08-30 -
!Dwarf Lupins, or Silky Lupins. {Scot/146} !Cheery little
things. !Heartwarming, to see that strenuous effort is sometimes
rewarded. Plants like this are real individuals --
hardy adventurers of the vegetable world. A status never dreamed
of by the common herd of forest trees and meadow grasses.
0323-25
88-08-30 -
We reach the highest summit of Burroughs Mtn, 7400', looking
S.W. toward Steamboat Prow on Mt. Rainier. Behind the upper
inverted "V" lies Camp Schurman, basecamp for summit climbers.
0323-36
88-08-30 -
!Nowhere to go but down again. We take a rest and eat lunch.
0323-37
88-08-30 -
The summit is marked by this round cairn. We seem to be
above the level of the clouds on the horizon.
0324-06
88-08-30 -
!Creeping Beardtongue {Scot/140}
0324-10
88-08-30 -
!On the way down, a different route: lakes 3 different shades
of green. A branch of White Creek emerges from a patch of ice in
the upper right-hand corner.
0324-17
88-08-30 -
The snout of the Emmons Glacier feeds these lakes. It lies
on the N.E. flank of Mt. Rainier.
0324-14
88-08-30 -
!A final view back toward the summit through stunted spruce.
We're now decending below the treeline again.
0324-15
88-08-30 -
!Mountain Sorrel {Scot/126}
0324-18
88-08-30 -
The Sunrise service area is in the meadow at the upper left.
0324-19
88-08-30 -
Avalanches have cut swathes through the dark forest on the
opposite side of the valley.
0324-20
88-08-30 -
The terrain surrounding Sunrise is a natural playground for
the hiker. Years ago the valley on the left held youth camps and
lodges. The "wild is beautiful" philosophy has taken hold
nowadays. A good thing for us, though it restricts the numbers
of people who are prepared to come up here.
0324-22
88-08-30 -
This man-made outlook makes a good destination for a modest
hour's stroll from the parking lot. But you have to go above the
tree-line, and under your own steam, to really experience the
sense of liberation that altitude brings.
0324-23
88-08-30 -
Near the service area are a few lush Alpine meadows surounded by spruce
trees. Unlike the surrounding area, this sheltered spot is well-watered and
supports familiar varieties of flowers.
0324-26
88-08-30 -
!A staff residence for parks workers at Sunrise. On the left
is the interpretive centre.
0324-32
88-08-31 - Columbia R.
We resume our route northward, following the valley of the
Columbia. The river flows through a canyon at this point and the
surrounding terrain is arid desert.
0324-37
88-08-31 - Columbia R. Reflections.
Taking advantage of the sunshine, apples and grapes are
grown for the supermarkets of the east. Agriculture would be
nearly impossible without irrigation. Public money spent on it
could probably be claimed as an unfair subsidy if Niagara
farmers would take their case before the Free Trade Tribunal.
0325-03
88-09-01 -
!At Kelowna, B.C., a waterfront monument to the history of
navigation on Okanagan Lake.
0325-02
88-09-01 - Kelowna, B.C.
A paddle wheel steamer takes tourists for a ride. The paddle
wheel is only cosmetic.
0325-09
88-09-01 -
!Kalamalka Lake, Coldstream valley. This is one of those
rare scenic views that combine all the important elements:
mountains, water, forest, valley, habitation, cultivated fields.
Standing here, I have fantasies of being some wild, mountain man
gazing covetously down on civilization below me.
0325-11
88-09-01 -
En route to Rogers Pass, loggers burn slash. This plume follows us for
miles, turning the air pink. I'm not sure what the justification for
slash-burning really is. Whatever forestry people say about fire prevention
and the like, I suspect it's done at least partly to tidy up clear-cuts so
tree-huggers like me won't complain about the look of devastation.
0325-15
88-09-01 -
!Illecilliwaet Campground in Glacier National Park, near
Rogers Pass. Tall trees surround the kitchen shelter. We're in
the Selkirk Range.
1988-09 - Rogers Pass area{#1}
0325-19
88-09-02 - Abbot Ridge trail.
!Rogers Pass. !A view west from the Abbot Ridge trail.
We're determined to get in some real hiking this trip. Climbing
up from the highway, we reach this first look-out. An excellent
view for the investment in time and effort.
0325-21
88-09-02 - Marion Lake
Here the main trail continues upward.
0325-22
88-09-02 -
Looking ahead, we get a view of the mountain wall we HOPE we're going to
be able to ascend. Looks a tad more formidable than I'd imagined. A sliver of
moon hovers over a moonscape of smashed rock.
0325-23
88-09-02 - Mt. Sir Donald
Mt. Sir Donald rockets up out of the haze of distant slash-burning fires.
!A true alpine peak like the Matterhorn in Switzerland, with classic
pyramidal shape. Sir Donald was a director of the C.P.R and can be imagined
sitting enthroned in splendour on that summit. !In his day, probably also the
valedictorian for Commerce 101.
0325-24
88-09-02 - Environment Canada instruments.
!Meteorological instruments and a view east. Rogers Pass is
under close surveillance in winter time to guard against snow
build-up on that long slope to the right. Subject to the reports
of weather observers, artillery fire is sometimes used to
dislodge snow accumulations.
0325-25
88-09-02 -
Turning toward the cliff, we pick our way upward. Gravity seems to be
getting stronger the higher we go. I thought it was supposed to diminish as
you got further from the centre of the earth. And that green oval area in the
middle is probably the result of a flying-saucer landing. But, wait, I'm
getting further from the centre of my story.
0325-26
88-09-02 -
!Western Anenome, sometimes called Towhead Baby. {Scot/37}
0325-28
88-09-02 -
!The view east toward Rogers Pass, but higher up.
0325-29
88-09-02 -
!Mt. Sir Donald again, above the weather observers' cabin.
0325-30
88-09-02 -
The trail continues to rise but instead of going straight up the cliff,
makes a hairpin turn to the left. This triggers one of those little
revelations that hiking above the treeline can bring. Each switchback, each
twist in the trail brings a new or updated discovery of the surrounding
scene. !New mountain ranges in the distance, valleys not previously visible.
0325-31
88-09-02 -
A last switchback takes us behind the cliff face, up a ridge
and back again toward a new vantage point much higher up.
0325-36
88-09-02 -
The last few stunted spruce lie behind us.
0325-37
88-09-02 - Looking down
The trail returns to the edge of the cliff with a height gain of several
hundred metres. We're now beginning to feel we've accomplished something
altitude-wise. Just above the brownish area below, you can see Marion Lake
that we passed over an hour ago. And on the edge of the shoulder, what looks
like a hut, possibly an emergency shelter. The meteorological instruments
are toward the right.
0326-03
88-09-02 -
Coming over the top of the rise, Mt. Sir Donald again, but
we are now in a position, if not of equality, at least of
reasonable dignity. In absolute height, we're probably even with
a point above the halfway mark.
0326-04
88-09-02 - El Condor foiled
El Condor spreads his wings and prepares for a quick descent. !On the
right of Mt. Sir Donald, the Illecilewaet Snowfield and Glacier. This is the
point where the guy in the yellow shirt poses for a somewhat cheeky picture.
(mercifully not shown here.) But another hiker is sighted on the upward path,
thus ending any essays into high altitude figure photography.
I can easily understand why the gods of the ancient Greeks were pictured as
hanging out on Mt. Olympos, and why the Hebrews also had a thing about
holiness asociated with high places. The sense of vision, of inclusiveness,
of revelation associated with these high places gives some of us a glimpse of
eternity. A new-age illusion? Maybe, but, I'm betting, a GOOD illusion.
0326-13
88-09-02 -
The Illecillewaet River brawled with the rocks in its bed
all night long behind our campsite. We tried bathing in it after
coming back from our hike. We only succeeded in getting our feet
wet. Had to wash with face towels. Good stuff for mixing cold
drinks. Felt like it was coming directly out of a glacier.
0326-20
88-09-04 -
!Yoho Nat. Pk. The trail to Twin Falls goes up the valley of
the Yoho River. The route is mostly through forest so the
viewing is somewhat circumscribed. The path starts out fairly
level except for patches near the end. A good hike for those who
feel uneasy on the heights.
0326-19
88-09-04 -
This is about the only specimen of wildlife we got a good
look at in Yoho National Park
0326-22
88-09-04 -
The last few kilometers turn out to be sweaty, but Twin Falls
itself is unique. Well, actually, dual, rather than unique, but
you know what I mean.
0326-28
88-09-04 -
Nearby is a chalet where you can stay the night (with
reservations made long in advance). Here we get tea and cakes to
supplement our lunch, plus a chat with the eccentric hostess who
has strong feelings about boots inside the front door. Her supplies
have to be brought in by pack animals.
0326-30
88-09-04 -
Takakkaw Falls is visible from a fair distance and easily
reachable by road.
0326-31
88-09-04 -
0326-35
88-09-04 -
The rooster-tail of flying water is a distinctive feature.
At this point, the falls creates such a gale that you have to
hang onto your hat. Camera lenses and eye glasses are quickly
fogged up by the spray.
0326-38
88-09-05 -
Emerald Lake really does have an emerald colour.
Unfortunately, this isn't very apparent while standing on shore.
0326-39
88-09-04 -
A lodge caters to well-heeled patrons. A fine hiking and
jogging tail goes all round the lake.
0327-03
88-09-04 -
The emerald-green colour show up better when you get a bit
higher up.
0327-05
88-09-04 - Lake O'Hara shuttle
Camping at Lake O'Hara is by permit only and no cars but
service vehicles are allowed in. We arrive at the park office
shortly after dawn and luckily find that a tent site is still
available. The ride up to the lake by bus is a long, dusty grind
in low gear.
0327-05
88-09-04 - Lake O'Hara shuttle
0327-09
88-09-05 - Mine, all mine!
Settled onto a tent site, we ask the park interpreter for
her advice on the best all-round, get-aquainted hike. She
suggests the so-called Odaray-Grandview trail. From among the larches near
the treeline, Lake O'Hara is clearly visible. Hallelujah!
0327-10
88-09-05 - Mt. Odaray
!Cliffs ahead of us. No illusions about getting up these.
0327-14
88-09-05 -
After much upward plodding, we reach the bottom of a small icefield and
make snowballs.
0327-14
88-09-05 -
0327-17
88-09-05 - Looking back toward Lake O'Hara
Adding one more rock to the cairn, we make our mark on the world. Walking
on these stones produces a kind of musical clattering noise. The Abbot Pass
bears left off that valley beyond the lake. It's a fantastic experience to
have so many pieces of the geographical jigsaw fall into place. The vision
encompasses whole chunks of territory. (Admiral Fisher?)
Circumnavigate, my boy. See a thing from all sides and then you will have
grasped it in its entirety.
0327-21
88-09-05 - Rotten ice, 8800 ft
The highest point we reach is at the bottom of a cliff where
solid rock begins. The access road to the Lake O'Hara area
threads the forest below. Lake Louise is not far away through the
notch in the mountains on the centre right horizon. And Lake
Louise leads back, behind those mountains, to the Abbot Pass,
whose approaches are now visible behind us.
0327-25
88-09-05 -
This is the base of the cliff glowering down at us from
above. Unfortunately, time is running out and we have to end the
hike here. Out height gain above Lake O'Hara is about 2200'. It
feels like more.
0327-27
88-09-05 - A farewell view
!A hanging wall of ice. The ridge at the top is apparently reachable by
determined hikers without technical equipment. All this clambering up
foothills, shoulders and approaches is simply grand, but what we really long
for is to stand on a piece of CONVEX ground, where the slope is downward on
EVERY side -- a real peak, however modest. !Next trip to the promised land?
0327-32
88-09-05 - Alpine Club of Canada chalet
!Getting a drink near the Alpine Club chalet. This open
meadow was originally used as a campground by mountain climbers
and hikers. Today the area is jealously guarded by Parks Canada.
You are encouraged to stay on the trail and keep your great
knobbly boots off the tender flora.
0327-33
88-09-05 -
!Entrance to the chalet. Inside, we had tea at the invitation
of a gentleman from the Japanese Alpine Club.
0327-35
88-09-06 - Mt Odaray
!Day two at Lake O'Hara. !A view of the previous day's hike
on Odaray Mt. We eventually reached a point within striking
distance of the small peak in the middle. Below and to the left
of it, is a hanging valley with two small ice patches showing.
We got about halfway up the left side of that valley.
0327-34
88-09-06 - Wiwaxy Pass
Today we head for Wiwaxy Pass. The name means "windy pass". At first the
map seems to be pointing us up this unlikely ravine. !But no.
0327-34
88-09-06 -
0327-37
88-09-06 - Almost hoodoo-like formations
The climb up is extremely hot. I take off my shirt. Nearing
the summit of the pass, these battlements caution mere hikers
to avoid getting too far above themselves.
0328-07
88-09-06 - Top of Wiwaxy pass
Reaching the top of the pass, we get a shock -- gale force wind and a
chill factor like early March. Our altitude is about 8900'. The contrast with
the hot upward climb is cautioning. Keep your windproof, waterproof and
search-and-rescue-friendly clothing handy. We've been saved several times
from potentially hazardous exposure by cheap waterproof clothing.
0328-01
88-09-06 -
We huddle beneath the top of the rise and manufacture lunch
on our portable gasoline stove. I have to contruct a windbreak
of rocks and raingear just to get the thing to burn properly.
The pass is guarded by twin doorposts. !This one on the left ...
0328-06
88-09-06 -
!And this one on the right.
0328-04
88-09-06 -
Standing in between, you are now looking over the top of the pass and
down the opposite side. This is certainly one of the most memorable picnic
sites we've ever visited. You can see the Lake O'Hara access road along the
valley bottom in the distance. This leads back to the park entrance and the
highway to Lake Louise.
0328-09
88-09-06 -
We take a circuitous route down from Wiwaxy Pass. That long
streak along the side of the slope is the trail we've just come
along.
0328-10
88-09-06 -
Lake O'Hara again, and the site of yesterday's hike in the
middle background. Today's trail coming up from Lake O'Hara lies
somewhere on the nearby slope.
0328-13
88-09-06 -
View down the so-called "trail" to Lake Oesa. Looking ahead, the route
follows the Huber Ledges curving round the mountainside. This is about as
close as the hiker gets to real mountain climbing. The panorama is
intoxicating, the trail exciting, the day heroic. Merle is leading the way
near the ridge on the left. Definitely a hiker's high at this point.
0328-17
88-09-06 -
!The battlements again. !A reminder to keep our pride within
limits. From here it looks about as far up as down. We're
at least halfway to Paradise.
0328-22
88-09-06 -
!Trail junction, looking toward Abbot Pass.
0328-19
88-09-06 - Lake Oesa
!Closer view of Lake Oesa.
0328-23
88-09-06 - Catspaws or Zephirs?
We continue downward. !Catspaws on Lake Oesa. This is the
REAL Emerald Lake. On second thought, the colour is
probably nearer to turquoise.
0328-26
88-09-06 - Abbot Pass, from Lake O'Hara
!A closer view up Abbot Pass. !Another ambition: to reach
the Alpine Club hut at the top. This same pass is also
accessible from the Valley of the Five Glaciers which lies
beyond the head of Lake Louise.
0226-21
- Abbot Pass, from Lake Louise
0226-20
83-08-17 - Derek doing dangerous stuff (1983)
0226-26
83-08-17 - Abbot Pass hut, Alpine Club of Canada
0328-28
88-09-06 -
!Merle on the shore of Lake Oesa.
0328-30
88-09-06 - Semi-panorama
!A natural dam retaining the lake.
0328-33
88-09-06 - A squint at the human condition?
Figure in a landscape, on a convenient natural bridge across ... water too
cold to swim. Following a clear trail back to ... a comfortable campsite.
This observation, after having spent the day joyfully witnessing the hidden
connections between a hundred square miles of mountains, lakes, valleys, and
forests. ... A "religious" friend of mine once said that the natural world
was a HOSTILE environment. Presumeably, in contrast to the spiritual world. I
was speechless at what seemed ... a real impiety.
Sampson, eyeless in Gaza, the religious Disneyland of the Middle East at
that time, presents us with an iconic drama of national conflict. But to be
willfully blind and to walk sightless among Lake O'Hara's scenic miracles
would be a definite anomaly.
0328-34
88-09-06 - Return to camp
Taking a looping route back toward Lake O'Hara, our recent path down from
Wiwaxy Pass is vsible. We now bear left up the ridge ahead. The weather shows
signs of closing in.
0328-35
88-09-06 - Low road or high road?
!Waterfall on the stream draining Lake Oesa. Hikers descend toward Lake
O'Hara on the trail at the left of the waterfall; the weather darkens; a last
ray of sunshine lightens the crags. Drama in Nature. Drama for us. Is this a
vindication of the Pathetic Fallacy or what?
0328-36
88-09-06 - Lake O'Hara
Lake O'Hara Lodge and the Alpine Club hut are again visible
below. We begin our descent via the Yukness Ledges. It starts to
sprinkle half-way down. Mercifully, not hard enough to make the
rocks really greasy and dangerous.
0328-37
88-09-06 -
It's definitely raining by the time we reach the lake and we're into
extra sweaters and yellow waterproofs just to keep warm. We cook supper with
sleet pelting down into the macaroni and cheese. We spend the coldest night
of the summer wrapped in every available stitch of clothing, heavy sleeping
bags, and each other.
0329-02
88-09-07 -
!Next morning, snow on the peaks. A quick breakfast and then
we pack up. !Not a retreat, really. Our time is up. We have to give
up the campsite to other late season hikers eager to pound the
Lake O'Hara trails.
0329-10
88-09-07 -
Waiting for the bus back down, we're a little exhausted but proud of
ourselves. !Candidates for "We survived Lake O'Hara" T-shirts.
Southern Alberta.
0329-12
88-09-08 -
Leaping the foothills and Calgary at a single bound, we
visit the Tyrrell Museum in Drumheller, Alberta. The greenhouse
contains prehistoric plants to match the dinosaurs in the
museum. Actually, the plants arn't prehistoric themselves, but
present day survivals of ancient types of plants.
0329-14
88-09-08 -
A jungle of tree ferns right inside the Museum building.
0329-17
88-09-08 -
The Tyrrell Museum has a very complete display, covering
all aspects of antediluvian life.
0329-27
88-09-08 -
A cable ferry crosses the Red Deer River near Drumheller.
The craft has an engine that winds up a cable on the river
bottom, pulling itself across.
0329-19
88-08-08 -
!Our first sight of the badlands at Horse Thief Canyon.
0329-28
88-09-08 -
!A Closer view of the layers, including what looks like a
thin coal seam.
0329-31
88-09-08 -
A prize collection of Hoodoos lives near Drumheller.
0329-36
88-09-08 -
0329-38
88-09-08 -
!Two Hoodoos wearing hats.
0330-22
88-09-08 -
At Dinosaur Provincial Park further down the Red Deer
River, we have an experience of camping in a near desert.
0330-26
88-09-09 -
We take a stroll with our neighbours on the next campsite
through the eroded badlands.
0330-30
88-09-09 -
The badlands contain a mineral deposit called Bentonite
according to our companion. It's a form of clay, almost rocklike
when dry, easily carved by water when wet. Bentonite has
industrial uses for its absorbing, filtering, sealing and other
qualities. Fuller's earth is a variety of Bentonite.
0330-03
88-09-08 -
At dusk, we go looking for the next great fossil find that
might happen to be sticking up in plain sight.
0330-07
88-09-08 -
0330-06
88-09-08 -
The sandal wearer has to watch out for prickly pear cactus
underfoot.
0330-12
88-09-08 -
Animals begin coming out as the sun goes down -- rabbits,
deer, plus a few shy woodland creatures, far from their normal habitat.
0330-17
88-09-08 -
!Standing atop the Treasury of the Aztecs, worshipping the Sun
God. The area did look like an eroded ruin in this light.
0330-19
88-09-08 -
All sorts of interesting life-forms come out of their
burrows after dark.
0330-21
88-09-08 -
Returning to our campsite, a speck of light glints on the
Red Deer River in the distance.
Back in Ontario.
0331-01
88-09-12 -
!At Neys Provincial Park. This mysterious gnomon marks the centre of the
world. I've seen several of these in the last few years.
0331-03
88-09-12 -
!Another great feast of macaroni and cheese.
0330-37
88-09-12 -
!And a digestive stroll afterward.
0331-06
88-09-13 -
!The same shore the next day. Reminds us of Long Beach in
Pacific Rim National Park on our final day there. We've been having
quite a series of blustery departures on this trip.
0331-09
88-09-13 -
Passing through Lake Superior Provincial Park, we decide to
follow the road to Gargantua Harbour.
0330-33
88-09-13 -
We have to rent this truck with snowmobile tracks. It's
about 15km down to the shore, but it takes us more than an hour.
The one-lane dirt track has constant hair-pin turns, narrow
bridges and car-nivorous rocks.
0331-08
88-09-13 -
Up at the tip of Gargantua Bay lies a secluded tenting site.
!Probably a good spot for a base camp to explore the coastline.
!Perhaps another year. (Yes, we did.)
0331-11
88-09-14 -
At South Baymouth, Manitoulin Island, the Chi-Chi-Maun
enters harbour. This side of the water still feels like the True
North, Strong and Free. Dreaded "civilization" waits for us on
the other side.
0331-12
88-09-14 -
September 14th -- the Chi-Chi-Maun gulps down the last
pitiful dregs of the tourist season for the trip south.
0199-11
80-08 - Chi-chi-maun entering Tobermory Hbr.
0199-32
80-08 - Chi-chi-maun ferry, Tobermory.
And spits us out again on the opposite side of the water to begin the last
leg of our trip home.
Y070306-09b
- Lastman: Jonah and the Whale.
Oops, almost forgot my toga on the ferry.
black
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